Sacra di San Michele
The Sacra di San Michele, perched atop Monte Pirchiriano near Torino (Turin) in the northern Italian region of Piemonte (Piedmont), is a monumental abbey with deep historical, architectural, and spiritual significance. Built between the late 10th and early 11th centuries, the abbey—abbazia in Italian—was founded by the Benedettini (Benedictine monks) and is dedicated to San Michele Arcangelo (Saint Michael the Archangel), the celestial protector and warrior. This sacred site forms part of the legendary Linea Sacra di San Michele, or “Sacred Line of Saint Michael”—a perfectly aligned string of monasteries running from Skellig Michael in Ireland to Monte Carmelo in Israel. According to legend, the line represents the sword-blow struck by Saint Michael himself when casting Lucifer out of Heaven.
The abbey became an important luogo di pellegrinaggio (pilgrimage site) throughout the Middle Ages, as pilgrims traveled along the ancient Via Francigena, a route linking Canterbury to Rome. Its immense cultural and political influence shaped religious practices and monastic life in Piedmont and beyond. The abbey’s elevated location—seemingly hewn from the living rock of the mountain—offered not only breathtaking panoramic views of the Valle di Susa, but also a tangible sense of spiritual ascent, aligning with the medieval view of physical elevation as a path toward the divine.
One of its most mysterious and iconic features is the Scalone dei Morti, or Stairway of the Dead—a massive stone staircase leading up to the main entrance of the church. Originally, the stairwell housed several sarcófagi (sarcophagi) and tombe (tombs) of noble families, some of which can still be glimpsed in the dim corners of the passage. The staircase was both a physical and spiritual threshold—pilgrims ascending the steep, echoing steps would pass through the literal presence of death before reaching the sacred space of the church. The contrast between mortality and eternal salvation was intentional, echoing medieval themes of memento mori—reminders of death that prompted the faithful to contemplate their souls and their salvation.
At the top of the Scalone is the Portale dello Zodiaco (Portal of the Zodiac), an intricately carved marble doorway added in the 12th century by the master sculptor Nicolaus, a figure who left his mark on many Romanesque structures throughout Italy. This portal is rich with symbolism, depicting signs of the zodiac and mythological creatures, blending Christian themes with astrological motifs that were common in medieval religious art.
Today, the Sacra di San Michele stands not only as a national monument—officially designated as the Simbolo del Piemonte (Symbol of Piedmont)—but also as a profound symbol of resilience, spirituality, and the fusion of nature and architecture. The abbey continues to be cared for by the Rosminiani order of monks, who maintain the site for religious services, retreats, and guided tours.
The abbey served as loose inspiration for the setting of Umberto Eco’s famous novel Il nome della rosa (The Name of the Rose), and even played host to film crews for historical documentaries and Italian films. The views from the Terrazza panoramica (panoramic terrace) are said to stretch, on clear days, all the way to the Monte Rosa and the Alpi Cozie.
Visiting the Sacra di San Michele is not only a journey into medieval history, but a step into a living legend that continues to stir the hearts of pilgrims, travelers, and lovers of Italian culture alike.
